On the banks of the Mississippi River stands the largest antebellum home in the United States. Nottoway Plantation, nicknamed "White Castle", stands as a testament to the wealth built on the backs of others, and of the days of splendor that are now Gone with the Wind.
Completed in 1859 on the magnificent mansion commissioned by John Hampden Randolph, a very prestigious Louisiana sugar planter. Designed to be the ultimate showplace of his wealth, John wanted no expense spared and wanted to include every extravagance and innovative feature possible. John wished to build the finest mansion on the Mississippi River, a spectacular home without equal that would be admired by all who saw it whether by boat on the Mississippi River or by carriage on the Great River Road. So passionate was John that his house have no equal, that it is rumored that immediately upon it's completion, he burned the blueprints for the home.
It took 2 years and $80,000 (18oos dollars) to build the opulent mansion John envisioned for himself, his wife Emily and their 11 children on the banks of the Mississippi. When finished the mansion was 53,000 square feet and had 64 rooms on 3 floors, 6 interior staircases, 3 modern (for the time) bathrooms, 22 massive 3 story high columns, 165 doors and 200 windows (1 opening for every day of the year). The mansion featured soaring 15 1/2 foot ceilings and massive 11 foot tall doors. Graceful curved granite steps led up to the expansive front porch, with a spacious third floor balcony directly above, that allowed for stunning views of the grounds and river to the front of the mansion.
*According to our tour guide, at the time the house was built, a lady's virtue could be called into question if she allowed a man to see her ankles. Often, a woman could be trapped into a marriage by a man claiming to have been "halfway to heaven" by seeing her ankles. Since it was common to see a woman's ankles beneath her dress while she climbed a staircase, Mr. Randolph put 2 separate entrance staircases on his home, so that his daughter's could keep their virtue by climbing one side, while their suitors climbed the other.
The 64 rooms in Nottoway included a grand entrance hall, a formal dining room, a ballroom, a gentleman's study and library, music room, front parlor, master bedroom, girls' bedrooms, Ancestral Hall, sitting rooms, breakfast room, wine room, dairy, laundry, servant rooms a bowling alley and the boy's wing.
Perhaps the most jaw dropping and most famous room in the mansion is the all white ballroom. Mr. Randolph apparently picked the architect for his home after seeing the drawings for the ballroom for Nottoway. Mr. Randolph insisted that the ballroom be completely white, so that the vibrancy and beauty of his 7 daughters had no rival during events. The ballroom boasts exquisitely detailed frieze work, stately Corinthian columns, elaborately embellished archways, two fireplaces of imported Italian marble, and chandeliers of baccarat crystal. The oval part of the room was made of exactingly curved cypress wood that took 6 years and excruciating patience to soak and bend slowly into the precise shape. This rounded end of the ballroom is the second level of Nottoway's dramatic rotunda. This ballroom would be the site of countless Randolph events including their daughters' debuts, five of their weddings, and countless parties and events.
The attention to detail is evident in every inch of the mansion. The exquisite plaster work is especially visible in the main stairway. The mansion boasts handmade frieze work throughout, with each room having it's own design. The plaster work in the mansion was done by a young Irishman named Jeremiah supple. Frieze plaster was made using a combination of mud, clay, horsehair and spanish moss, and can be fined as molding and in the 8 unique and ornate ceiling medallions. Overall 4,200 yards of it were used for plastering the walls, 1,500 more feet required for the elaborate cornice designs (seen in this picture) and 140 feet more for the scroll ornaments in the parlors.
Perhaps one thing that has changed the most since Nottoway was built, was the land that it is built on. Besides the house, the plantation included 1,900 acres of prime farmland and 5,636 acres of swamp. When the house was built, the landscaping design included the addition of 120 fruit and citrus trees, 12 magnolia, poplar and live oak trees, 75 rose bushes, 150 strawberry plants and a variety of flower and vegetable gardens. However, while Nottoway today boasts beautifully landscaped grounds and many towering historic Oak trees, most of the original front yard no longer exists; as the course of the Mississippi River has changed over the years, it has claimed more than eight acres of frontage.
So today, there is little space between the main house and the banks of the river, there would have been a significant portion of land between the banks of the river and the home when it was built. Even with 8 acres between it and the river, Nottoway still had trouble with flooding in the basement, so building it in proximity to the river like it is today, would have never been considered at the time of construction. Sitting on the balcony today, you can see a small island in the middle of the river, and that island would have been the original banks of the river. It helps give an idea of how far away the house originally sat from the river, but it is still hard to imagine land being there instead of the might Mississippi.
Just as the family was setting into life in their grand new home, rumors of war began to circulate. Despite being opposed to secession on the grounds he felt the agricultural south could never defeat the industrialized north, John still supported the Confederacy. Early in the war, John was able to take his sugar overland to sell for a profit, before deciding to move himself and his workforce to Texas where shipping was easier. However, both he and EMily knew that if they left Nottoway empty, it would most likely be destroyed. So they made the incredible decision for John and 200 slaves to head to Texas, send the older daughters to safety at an Uncle's plantation in a different part of Louisiana, and to have only Emily and the youngest children, including her baby Julia, and a few trusted house servants at the plantation. Despite the uncertainty of this situation, it proved to be the saving grace of the plantation. It is said that one day, a Union gunboat appeared on the river. Seeing this Emily took the only weapon she had, a small dagger, and stuck it in the waistband of her gown and stepped defiantly onto the second floor balcony to make her presence known. She then surprised the Union soldiers by inviting them into the mansion and entertaining them in her gracious manner. The Union solders were so taken with Emily and her elegant hospitality that a bond was forged that would last after the way. Although the grounds of the mansion would be badly damaged, the only damage to the house itself was some grapeshot in one of the front columns. While in Texas, John switched his main crop to cotton and was able to raise the cotton and obtain the necessary revenue to keep his property in Louisiana. Shortly before the 13th amendment, John received an offer from a man in Cuba (where slavery was still allowed) to purchase his slaves. However, John had made a promise to his slaves that he would abide by the outcome of the war, so he instead freed them. He then hired 53 of them to continue working for him, and when he finally returned to Nottoway, most of the slaves chose to go with him and continue working for him as free men and women.
Today Nottoway Plantation is a 5 star resort, and offers deluxe rooms for overnight guests, fabulous dining, luxury amenities, multiple event venues and the most gracious of southern hospitality. Guests can choose to stay in one of the Randolph's original bedrooms, or in one of the charming cottages that have been added.
During our stay we stayed in lucky room #13, which is located in the rotunda portion of the house, and boasts it's own private balcony. All of the rooms have furniture and accessories authentic to the mid 1800s, but also luxuriously updated with private baths and modern technology. A guided tour of the house is included in the price of your room, which allows you to receive the history of the mansion. As a guest of the house, you can open any door that is not locked (if it is locked it means another guest is staying in that room) which allows you to have full exploration of the house. When we stayed in 2016, we were the only guests in the house so we were able to explore every inch. It really gave us the experience of "living" in the house, and made us fall even more in love with it.
Included in our room was also credit to the onsite restaurant, located in the lower level of the rotunda, and known for it's incredible Louisana cuisine, which surely did not disappoint. The restaurant is located on the lower level of the rotunda and has large plates of glass between the columns that give the illusion of dining outside, while being protected from the elements, which was perfect for us since it rained the majority of our stay. The food was delicious and the atmosphere was second to none. By the end of our meal, we were sharing a table with some fellow guests that we had started talking to. It was like the house had put a spell of southern hospitality on us all.
After our meal, the rain let up so we decided to walk around the grounds. There was a wedding going on so it was fun to listen to the music and laughter coming from the large white tent on the property. The grounds are magical at night as everything this up lit and covered in little white lights. The manicured lawns, pathways, and fountains added to the beauty and tranquility of the setting. Since we were only there for 2 nights, and it rained the majority of our stay, we did not get to explore the grounds as much as we would have liked, but we are glad we got to enjoy Nottoway at night.
This plantation is truly magical. It has been through a lot since it's construction just before the Civil War, but through it all is has stood proud on the banks of the Mississippi, ready to welcome all with it's opulence, warmth and southern hospitality. If you ever have a chance to visit this mansion, make sure to do it, even if it is just a quick stop for their tour. If you have a chance to stay at the mansion, do it. And although the cabins are quaint and comfortable, if you really wish to experience Nottoway like a Randolph guest, be sure to stay in the mansion. The feeling of being home is incredible, and certainly transports you back in time.
No matter how long you are at Nottoway Plantation I can guarantee you one things, it will truly put you under it's spell!
For more information on this plantation, or to book your own stay, please visit their website at https://www.nottoway.com/
*All pictures on this post are my own, please do not reuse without permission
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